I just reread some of your comments and I want to mention that my 55mm lens is the ƒ2.8 version, not ƒ3.5. The 28mm spacer will only allow the lens to focus at a reduction ratio of 1:1.4, even when the film stage is closest to the lens. The 14mm spacer also allows the image to focus at 1:1 when the film stage is moved to the correct position. I just tried it with the 14mm and 28mm spacers. When I added the 7mm spacer, I could then move the film stage so that the 1:1 image was in focus. I use the Nikon AF-S Micro NIKKOR 60mm for my own copying, but when I was testing the 55mm lens (which I still own) and PK-13 combination with the ES-2 to see if I could help out with your query, I found that the sliding film stage of the ES-2 would not extend far enough to focus, even at 1:1. If you did it over would you choose the 7mm spacer or some other size?Īctually, in the Amazon link that mentioned ealier they show items “Frequently Bought Together” with the 7mm spacer, and list 14mm and 28mm spacers and I bought all three. I had tried using a light source from an Intrepid 4 X 5 enlarger, but I found that even though it gave me nice short exposure times, it was a little too bright to work with comfortably. I’m using a sturdy copy stand with a fairly bright lightbox giving me exposures of around 1/4 second at ƒ8. You might not be able to copy a whole roll in 3 minutes like Edouard_Bo, but the ES-2 will be much faster.Īs far as vibration, all of the above suggestions (a brighter light, flash, and/or mirror lock-up) are good starting points. Similar rings are available for around $10. In order to be able to focus at 1:1 with my 55mm Micro-Nikkor and the PK-13, I had to add a 7mm spacing ring with 52mm threads between the lens and the ES-2 film stage. The ES-2 comes with two different 52mm-62mm converter/spacers for the two different 60mm full-frame macro lenses that Nikon produces. The standard screw thread of the ES-2 is 52mm, for use with the 40mm APS-C macro lens. The 55mm Micro-Nikkor works just fine with the Nikon ES-2. Budget would allow purchase of an ES-2, but not the 60 micro. I am researching what I’d have to do to use an ES-2 on my current setup. I am using the ES-1 with a PK13-27.5 extension tube and my setup focuses fine, though much more cumbersome than using the 60 with an ES-2. The ES-2 looks like a much better solution for filmstrips, but it appears to be specific for the Nikon 60mm micros. I could never do a whole roll in 3 minutes. My negatives are cut in strips of 4-6, and require individual placement in the ES-1 slide copier. The idea of a flash to backlight is intriguing, but I use my light source to focus. I have my 810 tethered to lightroom, but focus using Sofortbild until Adobe builds LV into LR for Nikons…ugh. I only noticed that vibration on a couple of occasions, but enough that I am always concerned about it. My tripod is a Bogen (Manfrotto) 3011, a substantial tripod, but not super heavy. I have some decent sized silicon bumper pads I may add to see if that makes it better or worse. Washing machine vibration pads? Many brands out there and many prices. Thanks for all the suggestions…many ways to skin a cat Instead of raising the ISO should I open up the F stop or slow the shutter speed or just keep shooting at the 400 ISO? But the question is: Is that best practices? I try to shoot at 1/15 5.6–would like f8- and that requires a 400 ISO. My workspace in on the second floor of an older home, so floor vibration can rarely happen. So, my question is where to compromise on settings for best exposure? I am using my venerable Nikon 55/3.5 macro with Nikon extension tube and slide adapter. So, even though I try to shoot at my D810 lowest native ISO (64) that results in multi second exposure times. My light source is an Craftsman LED shop light that works very well, but its output is fixed. The quote above is from the Best Practices Guide.ĭoes “1-stop higher” mean over exposure or under expose by 1 stop? My question is regards the “best” camera settings, specifically, where to compromise if necessary for exposure? I have been using NLP to convert many old MF and 35mm negatives. SHUTTER SPEED: Set to your camera meter’s recommendation, or 1-stop higher
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